i sit here in heathrow airport, dumbfounded.
did that all really just happen? did i really just spend the past 18 weeks, 2 days, 12 hours, and 30 minutes living in south africa?
i'm not quite sure what i feel right now. i guess it hasn't hit me in its entirety quite yet. i mean, i cried as we took off from cape town airport, and i've cried thinking about all the amazing souls to whom i had to say goodbye, but i can't help but feeling like i haven't left cape town for good quite yet. it hasn't hit me that i'll no longer be crammed into a 15-seater minibus taxi with 30 other passengers. it hasn't hit me that i'll no longer be served entrées consisting of no fewer than 2 varieties of meat. it hasn't hit me that i'll no longer look to the west and see table mountain towering over the city.
it's been quite an adventure, and as such, it's had no shortage of its ups and downs. i'll try and remember to post a 10 to 1 list for this past semester, but the point is that being in south africa proved itself to be quite an invaluable learning experience for me. and it's hard for me to wrap my head around the fact that this stage of my life has, already and so suddenly, come to a close.
ciee's goal for this semester is to transform us into "global citizens", and while i'm still not 100% sure of what that means, i think i'm well on my way to becoming one. i've had to become accustomed to a multitude of seemingly bizaare (and, dare i say, foreign) customs held by south africans, from overlooking personal space, to not saying "bless you" after a sneeze, to clipping one's nails in public (i still think this one is gross, though). i've learned how to successfully dial an international call, and that we're the only ones who pronounce the letter Z as "zee". even the metric system has begun to make sense to me.
but, i think that another integral part of becoming a global citizen involves learning how to take on unique challenges, ones seldom found in the first world. it's no secret that south africa is lacking in sufficient infrastructure (albeit better than those within most african countries), and as such, i've found myself repeatedly challenged by occurrences within everyday life. once i figured out to overcome those, however, i became able to appreciate south africa, its landscape, its culture, and its people for the wonderful things they truly are. :)
that all being said, it was certainly sad for me to leave south africa. even though i'm excited to see my friends and family, i found it tough for me to say goodbye to cape town, making it a very bittersweet circumstance for me. unlike when i visit home after a semester at gw, i can't pop over to south africa whenever i'd like to say hi to my new friends or to be reminded to all the nuances of south african life that i've grown to love. indeed, it'll be a long time before i can return to the mother city.
more on all of this later. my flight to los angeles is about to board.
21 November 2009
11 November 2009
bloemfontein
i’ve been really bad about updating this blog, but i’m gonna go ahead and blame africa for this one because i haven’t really had time to sit down and hash out an entry detailing on what i’ve been up to. either that, or i’ve been too lazy. or the internet here’s too damn slow. either way, let me see if i can’t rehash the events of my trip to bloemfontein (i’ll cover more recent stuff in a later entry).
given how crazy everything is here, it shouldn’t have been a surprise that the trip that april, brigid, and i took to bloemfontein on october 8 (yikes, it’s been a while) turned out to be more hectic than what i’d bargained for. the three of us took an overnight bus from cape town to bloemfontein, and along the way we learned that the bus line on which we’d booked our return tickets was horribly dangerous and not recommended whatsoever, so upon arriving in bloemfontein we had to purchase new tickets through a more reliable company (which turned out not to be terribly expensive, but still, it’s hard to see money fly away like that). i’m a little surprised that nobody in cape town had said anything about it, even after we’d submitted our itinerary to the study abroad office, but anyway. we got to bloemfontein and the owner of the b & b we stayed at picked us up from the bus terminal. he drove us to the establishment (located in the upper-middle class neighbourhood of dan pienaar) and it was absolutely gorgeous! the owners (a husband and wife) couldn’t have been a nicer couple of people, and the property itself was beautiful. they couldn’t have been more accommodating and even said they’d let us take an extra single room so we wouldn’t all be “crammed” into the same room together (which we graciously declined, partly because we wanted to stay together, but mostly because our room was already plenty spacious). the husband was a white man from zimbabwe (which, interestingly enough, he continually called “rhodesia”) and the wife a white woman from swaziland.
after checking in, we set off for the main part of town by foot (2 kilometres away, downhill). it was pretty much immediately that we realised we weren’t in cape town anymore. first and foremost, there are no minibus taxis whatsoever. we found it odd not to have anybody yelling “wynberg!” or “kaapstad!” at us, trying to get us to board their vehicle; in fact, the drivers passing us by seemed bewildered that there were pedestrians within their town at all. to that effect, secondly, bloemfontein isn’t as much of a walking town as cape town is. not that i consider cape town terribly pedestrian-friendly, especially after dusk, but bloemfontein was definitely lacking in sidewalks. third, afrikaans is definitely, by far the principal language spoken in bloemfontein. even though south african law dictates that all public signage must be written in at least afrikaans and english, that law doesn’t extend to signage by private companies, and to this end, while most private signage in cape town is written in english, most of bloemfontein’s was written in afrikaans.
anyway, we got to the central part of town, and the first thing we did was stop by a lord of the rings-themed inn. j.r.r. tolkein was born in bloemfontein, and apparently the town tried to capitalise on the popularity of the movies with tourist attractions, but it’d largely failed in that regard. anyway, the inn wasn’t much to see (it was basically a regular-looking inn with some ivy and a sign that said “hobbit hole” or something dumb like that), so we proceeded over to the big mall in town, known as the waterfront (bloemfontein is entirely landlocked, but the city has an artificial lake beside which the complex sits). it was there that we had some pretty amazing pizza, although in retrospect i think we were really just hungry. then we walked around that area for a bit before going back to the b & b to rest for macufe, the cultural festival that had brought us to bloemfontein (a town otherwise deprived of tourism) in the first place.
so, anyway, we went back to the waterfront a little bit later and went to some café for dinner where we enjoyed amazingly delicious lemonade for 5 rand (although i got mine with vodka, so for me it was technically 14 rand). anyway. then we headed over to macufe, which was in the park right beside the waterfront. hmm, how do i begin to describe macufe? well, out of the tens of thousands of other attendees we saw, i think we saw only about 3 or 4 other white people there. also, the event was sponsored by jack daniel’s, and to that end they had a trailer set up there for “the jack daniel’s experience”. you go in, they give you a little tour where they tell you about the history of jack daniel’s as well as how the concoction is made, and then they give you a novelty plastic cup with a sample shot of it inside. it was gross, but whatever, there were a couple of bars set up throughout the venue so we weren’t terribly despondent. anyway, there were several random music groups performing, none of whom we knew but all of whom had female dressers who were dressed notoriously inappropriately (i could tell that women’s studies major brigid was dying a little inside, hah). somewhere in there, we went to use the portapotties (which were surprisingly clean!) and a random drunk guy decided to talk to me, give me a hug, and have a picture taken of the two of us using april’s disposable camera. it was magical.
and then… t-pain. that’s right… macufe, south africa’s cultural festival, was headlined by none other than the floridian rapper, in the flesh. i have to say, though, that i think we were all relatively disappointed in his performance. he was only on stage for an hour, and for a good chunk of that we was sitting down. i think he must have been sick or something. at any rate, he was lipsyncing the entire time, which i found disappointing, but then again, i shouldn’t have been surprised, either. interestingly enough, however, his back-up dancers were the least skankily dressed of any of the groups’ that night. we left the venue just a couple of minutes before t-pain’s stagetime ended, which was fine with each of us because we wanted to avoid the drunken crowds. that didn’t really seem to work out terribly well for us, though, because the cabs we’d theoretically believed to be sitting outside the venue waiting for us were nonexistent. we eventually managed to find one, but that’s not before some drunk guy decided to grab my crotch. it was magical, and by that, i mean it was not magical.
we woke up on saturday, which we’d planned to spend in maseru (mainly so we could say we’d been to lesotho as well as to have that extra stamp in our passports); our study abroad programme director had told us that we could easily find a minibus to transport us to maseru, we had no such luck, so we decided to spend the day attempting to partake in tourist activities throughout bloemfontein. unfortunately, like i said, bloemfontein really doesn’t cater to tourists, so we didn’t have much in that regard (heck, there was hardly anything open as it was), although we did see the capitol building of free state province as well as the supreme court building (which, incidentally, was an unmarked and rather disappointing edifice). we also saw the national library for afrikaans literature, because apparently, the afrikaans language has enough literature to fill an entire building. oh! and we also almost got locked into a mall. we’d been looking for a restroom and so we went into a mall downtown (anchored by shoprite, which says it all) but apparently 3:00 in the afternoon is when malls in downtown bloemfontein close on saturdays we we narrowly escaped what would’ve been an interesting story in its own right. i think we made our way back to the waterfront at some point for more 5 rand lemonade as well.
somewhere in there, we found the crafts market associated with macufe, and we bought some cool african-looking accessories made by local sotho and zulu women. i got a bracelet.
we went back to the b & b and hung out on the poolside for a little bit before going back into town. our plan was to eat dinner at the waterfront, then go barhopping on 2nd avenue, which, according to our hostess, was where all the anglophone bars are located. so, we got to the waterfront, and everything was closed. all the restaurants, all the cafés, everything. and it was only 8:00! apparently bloemfontein isn’t too keen on staying open after dusk (although april and brigid think it has to do with the macufe events, which we’d opted not to buy tickets for, going on that evening). we wandered the streets of bloemfontein looking for food. my eye caught sight of a seemingly hopeful mcdonald’s, but luckily, it didn’t come to that: we went to the 2nd avenue café instead and had pizza. april didn’t really care for it, but brigid and i thought it was all right. that was, however, when we learned that 2nd avenue is, actually, where afrikaans speakers go out (i think we were the only english speakers there). all of the afikaaner guys had repulsive mullets and kept on high five-ing each other in a heinously suggestive top gun-esque style. gag.
after we finished dinner (well after 10:00), we ascended to the dance floor, where we saw plenty more afrikaaners drunkenly dancing, but given the bar’s 10 rand special on rum & coke we decided to join the fun for a little bit. after a while, though, we realised that the scene wasn’t really happening, so we went down the street to a bar called stone’s (which is actually a chain of bars throughout south africa). the demography was the same but the scene was a little better, except for the fact that for some random reason it was prohibited to bring drinks onto the dance floor. anyway. the dj kept on playing covers (and not very good ones at that) of american songs from the 1950s, but we had fun nonetheless (i started dancing with this chick who kept on talking to me in afrikaans, and i tried to explain to her that i don’t speak afrikaans, but that was a failure and eventually her boyfriend got jealous and dragged her away anyway). then, april met a boy! now that, that was magical. he was 19 and attends the university of the free state, and apparently he decided to make a point of telling april of his heinously racist views (e.g., that black people shouldn’t be allowed to own land, blah blah blah). he seemed cool with the fact that i was gay though (he wasn’t sure if i was her boyfriend or not, so i told him i’m gay, a fact that apparently isn’t obvious to afrikaaners). we danced for a little while but then that guy’s creeper status became apparent so we bounced.
brigid and i wanted to go home at that point, but april was still insistent on having some more fun, so she dragged us on over to another bar that was having a form party (yuck) and paid our covers. we refused to interact with the form, the jacuzzis it was coming out of, or the individuals within the jacuzzis in any way, shape, or form, so we went inside to the dance floor, which was too crowded as it was. we also couldn’t help but notice that all of the foam-goers were 20-year-old fake blonds and creepy 40-year-old guys, so we didn’t stay long at that place and by then we all decided to go home.
it was raining when we exited that establishment, but it wasn’t a torrential downpour as we’re used to in cape town, so it felt very nice. we called our favourite cab driver to come pick us up (not the quickest of ways to get a ride home, but at least we knew we could rely on him), but guess who should make a special appearance on the corner we were waiting on? creepy afrikaaner guy from stone’s! he offered to give us a lift back to our b & b, which april blatantly declined due to the fact that he was wasted (oh, and creepy). after what felt like forever (but was really only 15 minutes), our cab arrived, and we left the puzzling afrikaans-speaking nightlife scene behind (the guy decided to give april a call after we got back to the b & b, but that turned out to be more of a source of amusement to us than anything else).
we woke up the next day (sunday), and it was right then and there that i knew i was getting sick. still, i wanted to complete our weekend, so we went into town to attend a soccer game at vodacom park. we thought it would be really packed, but i guess everybody was planning on attending the match later on in the day so the stands were fairly sparse for the noon match (plus, it was raining). the game was a lot of fun to watch, but they seemed to ignore all legitimate rules of professional soccer. mainly, the timing of the match was rather unconventional. “halftime” was about 20 minutes in, and the match ended like 80 minutes in, too. also, the players kept on slipping on the puddles throughout the field and falling down, which was actually more hilarious than anything else. haha.
after that, we walked back over to the waterfront, where we caught a showing of the “district 9” movie. it as pretty atrocious, as i was expecting it to serve as a social critique but it was basically just 2 hours of violent shit. it wasn’t a terribly realistic depiction of south africa either, but whatever, johannesburg is different from cape town so what can i say. we grabbed some ice cream after the showing, which i of course enjoyed. :)
soon after that, we went back to the b & b to relax for a little bit, then we packed our bags and went to the bus terminal, which was largely a fruitless endeavour given the weather had transformed into a particularly heinous rainstorm and our bus was some 2 hours delayed coming in from pretoria. our bus finally arrived, and soaking wet, we boarded it. the bus wasn’t as comfortable as the one we’d taken to bloemfontein, but i was able to sleep nonetheless.
we arrived in cape town the next morning -- late, of course, and because of that i missed my urban politics tutorial (which, as i later found out, got cancelled anyway). i was definitely sick by that point, much to my chagrin, but nevertheless i can say that i definitely enjoyed the weekend -- even though there was no shortage of strange characters or random events! still, it was nice to get out of cape town and see another part of the county. sure, it wasn’t durban or port elizabeth, but like when we went to northern cape, i’d like to think it gave us a more “authentic”, locals’ perspective on what south africa is really like. that being said, i still hold that bloemfontein is certainly not for the tourists. ;)
more to come.
given how crazy everything is here, it shouldn’t have been a surprise that the trip that april, brigid, and i took to bloemfontein on october 8 (yikes, it’s been a while) turned out to be more hectic than what i’d bargained for. the three of us took an overnight bus from cape town to bloemfontein, and along the way we learned that the bus line on which we’d booked our return tickets was horribly dangerous and not recommended whatsoever, so upon arriving in bloemfontein we had to purchase new tickets through a more reliable company (which turned out not to be terribly expensive, but still, it’s hard to see money fly away like that). i’m a little surprised that nobody in cape town had said anything about it, even after we’d submitted our itinerary to the study abroad office, but anyway. we got to bloemfontein and the owner of the b & b we stayed at picked us up from the bus terminal. he drove us to the establishment (located in the upper-middle class neighbourhood of dan pienaar) and it was absolutely gorgeous! the owners (a husband and wife) couldn’t have been a nicer couple of people, and the property itself was beautiful. they couldn’t have been more accommodating and even said they’d let us take an extra single room so we wouldn’t all be “crammed” into the same room together (which we graciously declined, partly because we wanted to stay together, but mostly because our room was already plenty spacious). the husband was a white man from zimbabwe (which, interestingly enough, he continually called “rhodesia”) and the wife a white woman from swaziland.
after checking in, we set off for the main part of town by foot (2 kilometres away, downhill). it was pretty much immediately that we realised we weren’t in cape town anymore. first and foremost, there are no minibus taxis whatsoever. we found it odd not to have anybody yelling “wynberg!” or “kaapstad!” at us, trying to get us to board their vehicle; in fact, the drivers passing us by seemed bewildered that there were pedestrians within their town at all. to that effect, secondly, bloemfontein isn’t as much of a walking town as cape town is. not that i consider cape town terribly pedestrian-friendly, especially after dusk, but bloemfontein was definitely lacking in sidewalks. third, afrikaans is definitely, by far the principal language spoken in bloemfontein. even though south african law dictates that all public signage must be written in at least afrikaans and english, that law doesn’t extend to signage by private companies, and to this end, while most private signage in cape town is written in english, most of bloemfontein’s was written in afrikaans.
anyway, we got to the central part of town, and the first thing we did was stop by a lord of the rings-themed inn. j.r.r. tolkein was born in bloemfontein, and apparently the town tried to capitalise on the popularity of the movies with tourist attractions, but it’d largely failed in that regard. anyway, the inn wasn’t much to see (it was basically a regular-looking inn with some ivy and a sign that said “hobbit hole” or something dumb like that), so we proceeded over to the big mall in town, known as the waterfront (bloemfontein is entirely landlocked, but the city has an artificial lake beside which the complex sits). it was there that we had some pretty amazing pizza, although in retrospect i think we were really just hungry. then we walked around that area for a bit before going back to the b & b to rest for macufe, the cultural festival that had brought us to bloemfontein (a town otherwise deprived of tourism) in the first place.
so, anyway, we went back to the waterfront a little bit later and went to some café for dinner where we enjoyed amazingly delicious lemonade for 5 rand (although i got mine with vodka, so for me it was technically 14 rand). anyway. then we headed over to macufe, which was in the park right beside the waterfront. hmm, how do i begin to describe macufe? well, out of the tens of thousands of other attendees we saw, i think we saw only about 3 or 4 other white people there. also, the event was sponsored by jack daniel’s, and to that end they had a trailer set up there for “the jack daniel’s experience”. you go in, they give you a little tour where they tell you about the history of jack daniel’s as well as how the concoction is made, and then they give you a novelty plastic cup with a sample shot of it inside. it was gross, but whatever, there were a couple of bars set up throughout the venue so we weren’t terribly despondent. anyway, there were several random music groups performing, none of whom we knew but all of whom had female dressers who were dressed notoriously inappropriately (i could tell that women’s studies major brigid was dying a little inside, hah). somewhere in there, we went to use the portapotties (which were surprisingly clean!) and a random drunk guy decided to talk to me, give me a hug, and have a picture taken of the two of us using april’s disposable camera. it was magical.
and then… t-pain. that’s right… macufe, south africa’s cultural festival, was headlined by none other than the floridian rapper, in the flesh. i have to say, though, that i think we were all relatively disappointed in his performance. he was only on stage for an hour, and for a good chunk of that we was sitting down. i think he must have been sick or something. at any rate, he was lipsyncing the entire time, which i found disappointing, but then again, i shouldn’t have been surprised, either. interestingly enough, however, his back-up dancers were the least skankily dressed of any of the groups’ that night. we left the venue just a couple of minutes before t-pain’s stagetime ended, which was fine with each of us because we wanted to avoid the drunken crowds. that didn’t really seem to work out terribly well for us, though, because the cabs we’d theoretically believed to be sitting outside the venue waiting for us were nonexistent. we eventually managed to find one, but that’s not before some drunk guy decided to grab my crotch. it was magical, and by that, i mean it was not magical.
we woke up on saturday, which we’d planned to spend in maseru (mainly so we could say we’d been to lesotho as well as to have that extra stamp in our passports); our study abroad programme director had told us that we could easily find a minibus to transport us to maseru, we had no such luck, so we decided to spend the day attempting to partake in tourist activities throughout bloemfontein. unfortunately, like i said, bloemfontein really doesn’t cater to tourists, so we didn’t have much in that regard (heck, there was hardly anything open as it was), although we did see the capitol building of free state province as well as the supreme court building (which, incidentally, was an unmarked and rather disappointing edifice). we also saw the national library for afrikaans literature, because apparently, the afrikaans language has enough literature to fill an entire building. oh! and we also almost got locked into a mall. we’d been looking for a restroom and so we went into a mall downtown (anchored by shoprite, which says it all) but apparently 3:00 in the afternoon is when malls in downtown bloemfontein close on saturdays we we narrowly escaped what would’ve been an interesting story in its own right. i think we made our way back to the waterfront at some point for more 5 rand lemonade as well.
somewhere in there, we found the crafts market associated with macufe, and we bought some cool african-looking accessories made by local sotho and zulu women. i got a bracelet.
we went back to the b & b and hung out on the poolside for a little bit before going back into town. our plan was to eat dinner at the waterfront, then go barhopping on 2nd avenue, which, according to our hostess, was where all the anglophone bars are located. so, we got to the waterfront, and everything was closed. all the restaurants, all the cafés, everything. and it was only 8:00! apparently bloemfontein isn’t too keen on staying open after dusk (although april and brigid think it has to do with the macufe events, which we’d opted not to buy tickets for, going on that evening). we wandered the streets of bloemfontein looking for food. my eye caught sight of a seemingly hopeful mcdonald’s, but luckily, it didn’t come to that: we went to the 2nd avenue café instead and had pizza. april didn’t really care for it, but brigid and i thought it was all right. that was, however, when we learned that 2nd avenue is, actually, where afrikaans speakers go out (i think we were the only english speakers there). all of the afikaaner guys had repulsive mullets and kept on high five-ing each other in a heinously suggestive top gun-esque style. gag.
after we finished dinner (well after 10:00), we ascended to the dance floor, where we saw plenty more afrikaaners drunkenly dancing, but given the bar’s 10 rand special on rum & coke we decided to join the fun for a little bit. after a while, though, we realised that the scene wasn’t really happening, so we went down the street to a bar called stone’s (which is actually a chain of bars throughout south africa). the demography was the same but the scene was a little better, except for the fact that for some random reason it was prohibited to bring drinks onto the dance floor. anyway. the dj kept on playing covers (and not very good ones at that) of american songs from the 1950s, but we had fun nonetheless (i started dancing with this chick who kept on talking to me in afrikaans, and i tried to explain to her that i don’t speak afrikaans, but that was a failure and eventually her boyfriend got jealous and dragged her away anyway). then, april met a boy! now that, that was magical. he was 19 and attends the university of the free state, and apparently he decided to make a point of telling april of his heinously racist views (e.g., that black people shouldn’t be allowed to own land, blah blah blah). he seemed cool with the fact that i was gay though (he wasn’t sure if i was her boyfriend or not, so i told him i’m gay, a fact that apparently isn’t obvious to afrikaaners). we danced for a little while but then that guy’s creeper status became apparent so we bounced.
brigid and i wanted to go home at that point, but april was still insistent on having some more fun, so she dragged us on over to another bar that was having a form party (yuck) and paid our covers. we refused to interact with the form, the jacuzzis it was coming out of, or the individuals within the jacuzzis in any way, shape, or form, so we went inside to the dance floor, which was too crowded as it was. we also couldn’t help but notice that all of the foam-goers were 20-year-old fake blonds and creepy 40-year-old guys, so we didn’t stay long at that place and by then we all decided to go home.
it was raining when we exited that establishment, but it wasn’t a torrential downpour as we’re used to in cape town, so it felt very nice. we called our favourite cab driver to come pick us up (not the quickest of ways to get a ride home, but at least we knew we could rely on him), but guess who should make a special appearance on the corner we were waiting on? creepy afrikaaner guy from stone’s! he offered to give us a lift back to our b & b, which april blatantly declined due to the fact that he was wasted (oh, and creepy). after what felt like forever (but was really only 15 minutes), our cab arrived, and we left the puzzling afrikaans-speaking nightlife scene behind (the guy decided to give april a call after we got back to the b & b, but that turned out to be more of a source of amusement to us than anything else).
we woke up the next day (sunday), and it was right then and there that i knew i was getting sick. still, i wanted to complete our weekend, so we went into town to attend a soccer game at vodacom park. we thought it would be really packed, but i guess everybody was planning on attending the match later on in the day so the stands were fairly sparse for the noon match (plus, it was raining). the game was a lot of fun to watch, but they seemed to ignore all legitimate rules of professional soccer. mainly, the timing of the match was rather unconventional. “halftime” was about 20 minutes in, and the match ended like 80 minutes in, too. also, the players kept on slipping on the puddles throughout the field and falling down, which was actually more hilarious than anything else. haha.
after that, we walked back over to the waterfront, where we caught a showing of the “district 9” movie. it as pretty atrocious, as i was expecting it to serve as a social critique but it was basically just 2 hours of violent shit. it wasn’t a terribly realistic depiction of south africa either, but whatever, johannesburg is different from cape town so what can i say. we grabbed some ice cream after the showing, which i of course enjoyed. :)
soon after that, we went back to the b & b to relax for a little bit, then we packed our bags and went to the bus terminal, which was largely a fruitless endeavour given the weather had transformed into a particularly heinous rainstorm and our bus was some 2 hours delayed coming in from pretoria. our bus finally arrived, and soaking wet, we boarded it. the bus wasn’t as comfortable as the one we’d taken to bloemfontein, but i was able to sleep nonetheless.
we arrived in cape town the next morning -- late, of course, and because of that i missed my urban politics tutorial (which, as i later found out, got cancelled anyway). i was definitely sick by that point, much to my chagrin, but nevertheless i can say that i definitely enjoyed the weekend -- even though there was no shortage of strange characters or random events! still, it was nice to get out of cape town and see another part of the county. sure, it wasn’t durban or port elizabeth, but like when we went to northern cape, i’d like to think it gave us a more “authentic”, locals’ perspective on what south africa is really like. that being said, i still hold that bloemfontein is certainly not for the tourists. ;)
more to come.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
